It’s only a modest ascent to get to the spine of Cefyn Bryn,
and walking along the wide path requires even less effort. High cumulous clouds
move slowly across the deep blue sky, and with the wind from the north, I can
see for miles. Due west is the
back of Rhosilli Down, north the wide expanse of the Loughour Estuary, and east
the distant Black Mountains. Beyond Oxwich Bay, the Devon hills are sharp in
crystal clear light. I feel I’ve climbed a mountain, but realise once more that
Gower is a microcosm of so many habitats in such a compact space.
The bracken has turned to brown now, matching the old red
sandstone ridge that runs through the centre of Gower. Gone are the carpets of
flowering heather and gorse that covered large areas of the down a few weeks
ago, and it’s starting to feel like winter already. A stonechat perched on top of a
gorse bush watches me pass. These bold little birds, such a feature of Gower at
any time of year, seem not to mind people.
Looking north, I watch two boys on mountain bikes haring up
and down the slope below. Over the
years, cyclists and motorbikes have created great ruts in the ground, and
attempts to prevent it seem to have failed, and these scars are now a permanent feature
on the north side of the bryn.
Apart from walkers and the occasional cyclist, the main path on the
ridge is used by pony-trekkers, ‘wild’ Gower ponies, sheep, and the few cattle
that graze the whole year round. It’s only on the slopes that the trial bikes
damage the ground and the landscape.
Beautiful place...scarred.
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