There’s no easy way to Pwll Du Bay. It’s a long walk down
the Bishopston Valley, and even from the road at the top of the cliff, the path
down to the beach can be difficult under foot. Whichever way I choose, the
effort is always worthwhile. From the old bridge I look upstream for signs of
water voles, they were common here years ago, but there are no telltale holes
in the bank anymore. There may be some left on Gower, but I haven’t seen any
for years.
Over the bridge, I turn right up the valley and head along
the narrow path. It’s dark and sheltered here, the scent of wild garlic is
overpowering, and the woodland floor is a mass of white flowers. The small reed bed below is now mostly
invaded by willows and will soon be no more. Not far from the bridge, the
canopy opens a little, the sun lights half of the woodland, with the rest in
shadow. A buzzard soars and calls above, birds sing, and there are more
flowers. A male orange tip butterfly catches the sun, and in a moment it’s
brilliant colours take my breath away. Bluebells, nearly past their best now, send a delicate
scent drifting in the air, mixing with the strong scent of garlic. The river
bends again and will eventually disappear underground. The walk up the valley to
the village is long and hard, so I make my way back to listen to the sea
breaking on the only real storm beach on Gower. There are terns fishing
offshore, unnoticed by the sunbathers taking in the sun, I wonder if they hear
their exciting calls, but think not.
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